Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Inside a secure building where Calle de Paz crosses Calle Comedias lies one of Valencia's oldest bars and an elegant restaurant with dark wood along the walls and enormous chandeliers. Part of the "Real Sociedad Valenciana de Agricultura y Deportes," a society that began in 1777 to promote agriculture, it's occupied the same building since 1859.
I arrived today at 1320 to meet friends at 1400. The large wooden doors are always locked. I pulled, must have looked horribly confused, then heard the familiar buzz as the doorman buzzed me in. I entered to see a nice entryway sitting room and with large mirrors on one side and a glassed in room to my left where the doorman sat with screens monitoring the building. He says the restaurant doesn't open until two. I don't see my friends. I open up my book and wait. My friends are late. Quite late, actually, but it's Spain and lateness here isn't really as much rude as it is convention. I really must learn this here. On time is one thing, but early? Obnoxious.
I arrived today at 1320 to meet friends at 1400. The large wooden doors are always locked. I pulled, must have looked horribly confused, then heard the familiar buzz as the doorman buzzed me in. I entered to see a nice entryway sitting room and with large mirrors on one side and a glassed in room to my left where the doorman sat with screens monitoring the building. He says the restaurant doesn't open until two. I don't see my friends. I open up my book and wait. My friends are late. Quite late, actually, but it's Spain and lateness here isn't really as much rude as it is convention. I really must learn this here. On time is one thing, but early? Obnoxious.
They show and we wait a few more minutes in the bar where older men in business suits sip beer and read the newspaper. The bar is a smooth dark wood with just enough worn spots to show it's age and a shiny surface that makes you want to slide your glass down the bar like they do in the movies. I sip my wine politely and avoid the temptation. The restaurant itself is full of finely dressed people talking in quiet, civilized tones. The chandeliers are bright. The waiters prompt and courteous. A small reservation sign is at our table. Elisa's husband is a member here, so we'll all eat at a little better price today. The set menu includes a first and second course, a dessert, and coffee. 
Primer Plato: Chicken salad with Brie My chicken salad is light and delicious. The chicken comes lightly breaded and fried matching the wedges of runny cheese along side it so that I'm not really sure which I'll bite into. They are both excellent.
Loli's Primero Plato: Fried egg with tomato and toast.
My friend orders something she says is traditional, but this is the first time I've seen it - a fried egg with tomato. I'm not an egg person, but she makes it look good.
Loli's Segundo Plato
Loli had this steak and potatoes. It smelled delicious and she didn't offer to share this time.
Segundo Plato: The tuna with veggies.
The paella comes highly recommended from friends, but I had the tuna which was served with flavorful vegetables cooked soft, but not mushy. Light, yet filling, this healthier choice would balance out the guilt of dessert. Or at least I hoped.
An intensely flavored, not overly sweet, chocolate cake
This delicious tarta de chocolate is moist and loaded with flavor. Topped with a dark chocolate espresso ganache, each moist crumb screams chocolate. Served warm with whipped cream, the portion was perfect, but I really could have eaten two. Perhaps I'll skip the fish next time. Conversations with Elisa never falter and today we were meeting with her Canadian friend, Loli, so we sat and chatted at our caffinated woman speed for hours randomly switching between English and Spanish even mid-sentence until the train schedule and the end of the school day pulled me back to reality. Such a nice afternoon, sitting with amazing women in this place steeped in tradition and luxury.AgriculturaC/Comedias 12ValenciaTel: 96 394 1226Web: www.rsvad.com Open: Lunch 1400-1600 Monday - Sunday; Dinner 2100-2400 Tuesday - Saturday
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