Saturday, May 27, 2006
Actually, I love Brussels... but I have a friend here who says that she can't go to Aachen anymore because "everybody knows me there" and Brussels is nice, but "I just go there ALL the time." So... it's a little joke now. And, now that I've been to Brussels six times or so, it is all just sooo "ordinary." Not.I am just now after this last trip starting to feel like I know Brussels better. This time I took Dad and Angie there without any big kids. We just had Elise and although she is fiercely independent, it was a lot easier to do a lot of walking around and see the area more than ever before. I'd known from guide books that there was an "upper" and "lower" Brussels, but I had no idea how close they were or if it was walkable between the two. This trip we walked all over each and saw a lot.
It was the first time I'd driven there and the traffic and parking really were a lot easier than I'd expected getting in. Getting out at the end of the day was an entirely different story somehow, but still, it wasn't scary to drive there. We parked by the Grote Markt/Grand Place and walked through the small outdoor market nearby that they hold each Sunday. One of these days I'll buy a painting there. They have a lot of craft vendors and the paintings of the Markt are very nice and affordable.
We walked through the beautiful glass ceilinged "strip-mall" first to stop into Neuhaus chocolates to pick up a box. It's a must-stop every time we go into town there. The "mall" is called the Galeries St-Hubert. Built in 1847, it was the first "shopping arcade" in Europe. Even now, shopping centers are few and far between seen only in very large cities.
Then we wandered back to the Markt through the street of fish restaurants who were just opening up and all tried to talk us into stopping in for some fine dining. Every restaurant had waiters standing outside trying to beckon in any and all passers by. They were setting out their displays of shells over ice and menu cards displaying set meals - 12 Euro for a three course meal or in some places 20 Euro would get you 5 courses and dessert. Some even included wine. There was no ala-carte available and telling these waiters that we just wanted something small was all I needed to say to decline the invitation. Small is not on the menu there.
Bathrooms are not always easy to find around here, so we found a nice coffee shop on the Markt. The building facades are beautiful and detailed, but the regal exteriors are deceiving. While some of the buildings are very large, this coffee s shop was very shallow inside and the stairs were steep. It extended up a couple floors, but it wasn't nearly as big inside as it looked outside. We enjoyed a nice cappuccino though and were able to take advantage of free (and clean) bathrooms which are quite a commodity. Elise enjoyed playing upstairs with the cusions on some chairs and was very happy - not disturbing anyone. After coffee we wound in and out of the Markt exploring the streets all around it and ducking into shops here and there. Belgium is known for lace, tapestries, french fries, chocolates, and waffles among other things, but those five things are readily available everywhere. We passed countless lace and tapestry shops and went into a couple. You can get beautiful lace and the tapestries are amazing - huge, but very expensive.
Angie wanted to try Belgian french fries since they were invented there and they are supposed to be better due to a special twice cooking method. They're served in paper cones with a hearty serving of... mayonaise on top. French fries are as common if not more common here than they are in the states and they are served with anything from the fast food bratwurst to a nice schnitzel or roast. The big difference is that they are always served with mayonaise instead of ketchup. You have to ask for the red stuff and when you do, you've got choices! Heinz makes flavors of ketchup that I've never seen in the states. You've got curry ketchup and pikant and literally another 20+ flavors in the grocery aisle. It's amazing. Germans LOVE their sauces.
In our wandering we managed to finally see the Manneken Pis. I've heard about this statue for so long that it was nice to see it. The original was put at the site in 1617. In 1698, the governor donated a suit to the small boy and now someone is paid to go every morning early and dress him in a different costume. Heads of states who come to Brussels on business reutinely bring fancy costumes from their own countries for the boy and the museum on the Markt has over 400 of these costumes on display. It is a huge attraction. We knew we were there before we even saw him because the crowds around this fountain were huge... but we got there to see a small statue no more than 12 inches high of a boy relieving himself into a pool. He was wearing a little suit of armor that day, and while amusing, I just don't understand the big attraction. Just a couple streets away is a wonderful building adorned with statues by Rodin, yet no one gathered to see those. This is a 1' replica of the original statue of a boy urinating and because he wears fancy clothes, everyone loves him. In the 1700's both the French and British armies tried to capture him. Finally he was stolen and smashed to bits by a thief, hence the replica that stands today. Yeah... it's odd. I just don't get it. I think the escargot stand on the corner opposite the statue was more interesting.

Speaking of odd statues... here is the statue of a man who was killed in battle defending Brussels. It is considered good luck to rub his arm, so again, huge throngs of people crowded around him waiting for their turn to touch/rub/massage this golden man and pose for the camera. Some passers by walked quickly by casually brushing his arm as if it was a daily ritual on the way to work and others, the touristy multi-camera'd kind stroke him as if giving him some elaborate Thai massage. Poor guy. His arm is supposed to be good luck, but his entire body is shiny from too much touching! Apparently Belgians love their statues as well. 

Hunger pains demanded another Belgian treat - the infamous waffle. Topped with strawberries and whipped cream is my favorite. We found a nice out-of-the-way spot in the Markt where Elise could climb up and down stairs over and over again and we ate our waffles in peace and gazed at the details on the buildings. Elise is obsessed with stairs and doorways. When she sees a doorway, she thinks it's an invitation to sit, like a cat, marking her territory.
We had a nice lunch just at the other side of the Galerie at a place that had more than 15 different types of quiche. The desserts looked fabulous too, but we were too full. After that we worked it all off with a walk towards the upper town.
We spent some time at the Notre-Dame de la Chapelle which was built in 1134. I really didn't exect that it would be so beautiful. We've seen so many beautiful churches here that they almost start to blur together, but this one stands out. Like many others it has beautiful arches and windows, but the statues overlooking the columns in this one are beautifully detailed and quite stricking with their size. The church has a lot of beautiful organs and old relics. Supposedly it contains 5 pieces of the true cross, but I didn't see them. Dad and Angie went into the crypt while I played outside with Elise. Elise loved the echo, so I had to hurry through the church... squeaking babies are not exactly welcomed in that environment and she kept trying to run under the ropes and up the three little stairs to the pulpit - clearly offlimits.
Brussels is a wonderful mix of the really old with the extremely new, so in almost every glance you can see the juxtoposition of the two - stark against the sky. This two weeks we saw so many amazing roof lines and this one struck me particularly with the old in the front and the glassy new in back. All along our walk that day we saw views like this. I love it. It's beautiful.
More walking brought us to the Parc De Bruxelles spanning a few blocks between the Palais Royal and the Palais de la Nation. The park has a overcrowded playground and puppet theatre for the kids. It would have been really nice, except for the amazing number of kids covering each and every square inch of each piece of playground equipment. Elise wanted so badly to play, but there just wasn't room! Elise enjoyed gazing into the fountains at either end of the park though. Water is her favorite thing to gaze at, play with, and throw things into. The park was more than just water and toys. It is very nicely planned with green areas and perfectly spaced trees. White marble sculptures are littered around the fountains and at various places in the park as well, so it does feel like a very stately place with the palaces situated on either end.
We walked down by the Royal palace where the king of Belgium lives. The gardens in front of the palace were very beautiful and perfectly groomed with hedges in patterns like a maze. The street in front of the palace was very wide - enough for possibly 5 lanes of traffic or more, yet it had no lane markings at all and cars were driving about very haphazardly. I was glad to be on foot. The Royal art museums are all behind the palace. We didn't have time enough to go that day, but we'll go back. The entire town is so beautiful. This trip made me love it more. 

At the end of a wonderful day we had time to relax and have a little laugh. Our kitchen window looks out the side of our house to the field at our side and the street and bus stop. Cars often stop at the bus stop for quick stops - to grab something from the trunk or look at a map, so we rarely think anything of it. This evening my dad and I were looking out the window when a car drove up. No big deal, but then, in the true style of the Mannekin Pis, the man got out, strode over to the fence, and as Angie and Tiara were walking up to look as well, we all got a very clear idea that he also needed a free bathroom. I pounded on my window hoping to embarrass him, but he didn't hear us. Not the view I'd hoped to see from my kitchen, but it's not the first time I've seen people here use a rather obvious, public area for these means... oh... and you just wait until I have time to write about The Hague!
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Quotes to consider...
"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and all science. He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead: his eyes are closed."
-Albert Einstein
What the heart has once owned and had, it shall never lose."
-- Henry Ward Beecher
It is in your moments of decision that your destiny is shaped. -- Anthony Robbins
We don't stop playing because we grow old; We grow old because we stop playing. -- George Bernard Shaw
An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered. -- GK Chesterton
The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn. -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
For most of history, Anonymous was a woman. -- Virginia Woolf
A friend is someone who will help you move. A real friend is someone who will help you move a body. -- anon
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. -- Paul Fix
For attractive lips, speak words of kindness. For lovely eyes, seek out the good in people. For a slim figure, share your food with the hungry. For beautiful hair, let a child run his fingers through it once a day. For poise, walk with the knowledge you’ll never walk alone … The best thing to hold onto in life is each other. ~Audry Hepburn
I am a great believer in luck, and I find the harder I work the more I have of it. -- Thomas Jefferson
-Albert Einstein
What the heart has once owned and had, it shall never lose."
-- Henry Ward Beecher
It is in your moments of decision that your destiny is shaped. -- Anthony Robbins
We don't stop playing because we grow old; We grow old because we stop playing. -- George Bernard Shaw
An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered. -- GK Chesterton
The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn. -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
For most of history, Anonymous was a woman. -- Virginia Woolf
A friend is someone who will help you move. A real friend is someone who will help you move a body. -- anon
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. -- Paul Fix
For attractive lips, speak words of kindness. For lovely eyes, seek out the good in people. For a slim figure, share your food with the hungry. For beautiful hair, let a child run his fingers through it once a day. For poise, walk with the knowledge you’ll never walk alone … The best thing to hold onto in life is each other. ~Audry Hepburn
I am a great believer in luck, and I find the harder I work the more I have of it. -- Thomas Jefferson
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