Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Another tour with another friend.  This is a blessing of having lots of company in town... repeat excuses to tour a city that I don't tire of.  Besides... there's always something new and interesting photo-ops.

Stop one on the standard Valencia tour:  Mercado Central.
I love the central market because it's always changing with the seasons, a bustling, colorful, maze of stalls with all their sights and smells and textures.  It's inspiring and fun.  Today it's November and fall is finally upon us with temperatures dropping just enough to suggest a sweater in the morning.  It's the season for these orangish greenish tan mushrooms that look like a fungus, but are supposed to taste great.  They scare me a bit, so I'm just as happy photographing them.

It's orange season as well, so some vendors previously selling a mixed lot of produce will switch gears and only sell sweet juicy clementines many with the stems and leaves still on.  It's easy to eat five of these in one standing.  These are the only type of pumpkin I see here in Spain with any frequency and this is how they're eaten.  It's similar in other European countries who like to eat them roasted and don't sweeten them quite like the Americans do.  They are surely missing out. 
 
The olives are in season as well, but don't try eating one off of the tree.  Yuck.  Been there, done that, long minutes of frantic spitting ensued.  It wasn't pretty.  I have no earthly idea how anyone got the idea to eat these things given their particularly rancid taste straight from the tree nor do I have any idea how they discovered olive oil, because I've stepped on plenty and have not noticed any liquid gold clinging to my soles.  Any rate, a good brine for a few months will turn these into Spain's favorite tapa, the best snack with beer, and something I could eat hundreds of while watching a movie - so much better than pop corn.  The mixed bags are not two different types of olives.  Green and purple do come from the same tree, they are just picked at different stages of ripeness, similar to the green bell pepper that we prefer to buy red and sweet.  The purple ones are riper and not as tangy.

Ahhh.  Now this is Christmas.  Like candy cane to the USA or a Printen to Aacheners, these turrones bring Christmas home for the Spanish.  They come in all flavors and varieties with each region having their speciality, but no matter what the flavor, locals love them and buy them in slices to take home and share. 
Turron de Alicante is a sweet white crunchy nougat full of almonds.  You'll also find loafs of nut filled chocolate, mazapan, and yema, Spain's answer to egg liqueur.

And in grosser subjects.  Isn't is lovely how the Spanish don't waste anything?  Yes, it's a good thing.  Or at least that's how I'll choose to think about it. 


The fish market isn't quite as disturbing except that several are still quite alive which always makes me feel a little sad for then sitting there on ice out of water.  The fishmongers were at their grouchiest today now putting up signs at several stalls that prohibit photography.  As if a photo will disturb either their business or the flavor of the fish.  Hmph.

Today it rained.  I tell you this because it was the first rain in a month and my feet were ill prepared (in $2.50 Old Navy flip flops).  Couple that with the sad fact that most of Valencia's sidewalks are large squares of slick marble and I was practicing my ice skating skills all over the city much to my fright and embarrassment.  


Our next stop was just a slide away across the street:  La Lonja.

This magestic building that is free to enter is the place where the silk traders met to, well, trade silk.  I've been here a few times.  Didn't bother to take photos until we got to the upper room which I don't always go in.  I'd forgotten how beautiful it was.  The ceiling is all wooden, intricately carved and painted, and made us stop and stare long enough for my feet to dry.



I'd love the know the stories of the characters here.  Both men and creatures mythical and real are depicted here.   The sheer number of different faces is amazing.  There are no repeats.

Our next stops were more like skids by as I scuffled like Charlie Chaplin to avoid skidding.  Macaira said it was like having an old Asian lady at her side, one with bound feet and a tight fitting dress to my ankles.  Sliding through the Church of Santa Catalina, Plaza Redonda, Plaza Reina, The Cathedral, the Basilica of the Virgen de los Desamparados, the Plaza de la Virgen and... back to the Plaza de la Reina to Valor Chocolates for a snack.



Ahhh.  This is a taza de chocolate unlike any that I've ever tasted in Spain or out of Spain for that matter.  After living here over a year, I have finally found the best, and rightly so, at the well known Spanish chocolatier, Valor.  Here the chocolate is dark and rich and smooth with added flavors if you want that aren't overpowering, but aren't so subtle you can only smell them.  It is heaven in a cup.  The latte by its side was just about perfect and to go with all this was the perfect order of churros, not greasy like those of street vendors at Fallas, but tender, sweet, and delicious.  The chocolate clung to them just right and we walked away, no I skated away, quite content with my chocolate lunch.

So it's raining.  Not hard, but enough to wet the slick streets making them slicker.  Enough to tread lightly and with great trepidation.  Enough to send us to the shopping district.  What else are two girls to do with time to kill and a need to stay dry?

And I made my friends proud.  I went local.  I walked straight into the store of all stores in Spain, El Corte Ingles, and found a beautiful sleek pair of high healed dress boots and I bought them.  Of course, I had to leave them there, run down 4 floors to buy a pair of socks, then run back up to buy them and put them on straight away so that I could jog to the train station, but it was totally worth it.  I now am the proud new owner of "big girl shoes."  No more rainy day flip flops for me!  ;)

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"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and all science. He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead: his eyes are closed."
-Albert Einstein

What the heart has once owned and had, it shall never lose."

-- Henry Ward Beecher

It is in your moments of decision that your destiny is shaped. -- Anthony Robbins

We don't stop playing because we grow old; We grow old because we stop playing. -- George Bernard Shaw

An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered. -- GK Chesterton


The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn. -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

For most of history, Anonymous was a woman. -- Virginia Woolf

A friend is someone who will help you move. A real friend is someone who will help you move a body. -- anon

The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. -- Paul Fix

For attractive lips, speak words of kindness. For lovely eyes, seek out the good in people. For a slim figure, share your food with the hungry. For beautiful hair, let a child run his fingers through it once a day. For poise, walk with the knowledge you’ll never walk alone … The best thing to hold onto in life is each other. ~Audry Hepburn

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