Wednesday, December 27, 2006
This morning we had to leave Paris and as crazy as it sounds, it was like leaving behind a new friend. No one was happy.I got up especially early, got myself together, and walked to the Monoprix for my last time to get my breakfast there. I lingered just a little extra trying to imprint my memory with some of the sights there... the cheese, the candies, the people. I walked over to the clothing department and looked around at the hats and scarves. There were berets in every color and a lot of different styles of scarves and stoles made of rabbit and dyed in colors like pink and green. I bought a beret for Tiara and a black rabbit change purse for myself - our little souvenirs from Paris. I bought extra cheese to take home, some hard candies to try, the juice that Kirk liked, and some chocolate. Then I went to the Patisserie for a couple baguettes and some chocolate biscuits. I wanted to get the almond cake that they'd prepared, but it was very expensive and I only had my change with me.
Packing and checking out went fairly quickly. I was worried because we hadn't seen tiger or lion - Luci's favorite stuffed toys in since the room was cleaned the day before, so once everyone was in the car and ready to go, I ran back up to the hotel to ask them if they might be in the laundry. I ended up talking to the manager of the cleaning staff who kindly took down my name and number just in case they turned up. (They ended up turning up when I unpacked the dirty laundry suitcase. Lion was wrapped in an dress and tiger had been hiding inside a hotel pillowcase.)
Photographs: Above) the Eglise Saint Augustine that is directly next to our hotel Below) Our hotel, the Cercle National De Armes de Terre De Mer et De L'Air, a 150 year old military officer's hotel. The entrance is in the very center. If you look up from the center to what looks like a balcony, there are three windows. Ours was on that floor on the right of the very center. We put our fruit out on that wide ledge at night to keep it cold.
Getting out of Paris was easier that getting into it, but still scary. The wide laneless roads with traffic going every direction at once made me grip the handle on the door tighter than normal. I tried to distract myself with inviting Patisseries and Chocolatiers and other shops, but the traffic there really is a bit scary.
Soon we were on the highway heading towards a small village that I wanted to see. We got off the A2 and drove through the Foret de Compiegne towards Pierrefonds. The Foret was amazingly well marked with large white signs bearing spokes at the tops pointing in all directions with the names of nearby villages and the distances away on them. We saw very few people out in the cold, but several riders on horses sped by through the forest. The trees were tall and mostly bare, the roads very straight, and every once in a while a beautiful old house would just appear out of nowhere. They had wooden shutters and many had other little buildings near them looking almost like a servants or guest quarters would look. One home even had a little lake in front of it that would be really nice in the summer.The villages that we passed through were very small and quaint. The stone houses were all varying shades of taupe giving the towns little color with the grey of the sky and the street. Still, they were inviting. I wanted so much to park and walk along the narrow streets and look at the little gardens and tiny little houses. The homes are so tall where I live that the short stone buildings in these towns seemed like doll houses all clumped together.
Pierrefonds is a small town, but it is known for it's Chateau - just one of many sprinkled throughout France. It isn't something that you'd ever run into - you really have to look for this place, but I'm glad we did. The Chateau de Perrefoonds was constructed on the hill in the 14th C, but was a ruin by the 18th C, so what we saw was relatively new. Napoleon I bought the Chateau for less than 3000 francs and Napoleon III commissioned the architect, Viollet-le-Duc (he also did restoration work on the Notre Dame in Paris) to restore it. It was completed in 1884. The exterior is quite medieval, but beautiful and much larger than I'd imagined. It had a moat as well, though no water in it when we went, just a very daunting moss covered drawbridge.
We parked on the narrow street just below the castle and walked up and around it. It was so cold we were all shivering and fairly miserable, so it was frustrating when we reached the top and it was closed for tours that day. Thankfully we found the quick way back down and were on the road again towards Compiegne.
The details on the castle were fun to look for. A gargoyle sticking his head out from the middle of a tall wall acted as a downspout allowing water to drip down leaving a trail of green moss growing on the wall there. Other carvings and statues set into the otherwise smooth walls added beauty without being garish. It almost seemed like an Advent calendar, seeing a new little carving each time you rounded a bend or came upon a new wall.
Thin slits from the bottom to the top of the fortress and even in the gates allowed arrows to go out, but not come in. A "young" castle, it was clean and white in comparison with many others I've seen.
The Clairiere de l'Armistice, near Compiegne, is the place where the armistice of WWI was signed in 1918. We tried to go there too, but it was closed and it was too cold to walk around much. There was an interesting monument there to the soldiers of WWI with a large fallen black bird. It read:
Since that was closed, we drove back to Compiegne hoping to find some food. There is another royal chateau there, but it isn't as pretty. It was built as the summer home for Louis XV, but it is relatively short, without the castle-like turrets and pomp. It takes up several city blocks and seems to sprawl forever, but other than its size, it is unimpressive from the outside. Truly, it looks like some U.S. government building in its style. The road does go through it at one point which was interesting. There is a tunnel through part of it that is only wide enough for one vehicle, so traffic lights on either side keep people waiting until it's clear.
Finding a place to park there was difficult, but we parked in a lot by the Rue de Victor Hugo and walked to the city center where the Christmas market was still going on. By a large church near the square ice skaters skated and laughed at a temporary outdoor rink circled with lights and greenery. One block separated that church and the other where the Christmas market sat. And in that block was the Brasserie Parissienne, a very crowded "cafe et salon de te." We sat in the corner by the window painted up with advertising with a clear view of the ice skaters next door. It felt good after our walk in the cold to sit and relax in the warmth. I ordered three Croque Monsieurs for the three bigger girls. This time they arrived a bit creamier than the last ones, generously heaped with more cheese and more bechamel sauce. As before, all three plates were empty when we left, those sandwiches are so delicious. Kirk ordered an omelet which arrived, tasty, but nothing special. I, loving the French style of eating, ordered one of their light small course meals starting with a delicious slice of Quiche au Saumon and a small salad. That would have been enough, but next came the Plat Du Jour which happened to be "Chafon a 'l orange et pommes de Terre Campagnarde." In English, a very flavorful chicken leg with orange sauce and the most delicious mashed potato dish I've ever eaten. I can't possibly describe it except to say that not a crumb was left - except for the mushrooms that were picked out. I still haven't grown up enough to eat a cooked mushroom. It was hard to leave. The restaurant was packed, the waiters were flying, and it proved impossible to catch their eye. Finally, I left with two of the girls and Kirk stayed with the other two until he could finally get their attention and pay.
The market at the foot of the church was small in comparison with the German Christmas markets, but it was the most Christmas I'd seen in France. There were ornaments, toys, vases, candles in the shapes of fruits that were so real, I thought for the longest time that it was a produce stand, and jewelry. Nothing really seemed special though. One stand decorated in the German style sold pretzels. Another German style booth had a witch on the roof and sold candy... it was called Hansel and Gretel. A women made huge crepes. A man sold hot orange wine that smelled delicious. There was a sausage seller and a couple small carnival rides. In the center, almost blocked by the booths, is a statue to the Joan of Arc who was captured there in 1430.
Photographs: 1) The Joan of Arc statue "Je Yray Voir Mes Bons Amys de Compiengne 1430-1880 1895" 2) The fruit candle booth at the Christmas market 3)The view of the church at Compiegne 4) Hansel and Gretel 5) The meat vendor 6) The top of the church and a flock of birds - there were a lot of pigeons there
Photographs below: 1) Desserts in the window of the Chocolatier 2) A street in Compiegne 3) Both WWI and WWII memorials by the church in Compiegne 4) Large wooden shutters common on homes here in France 5) The church with the ice skating rink
Still with three more hours to drive, we walked back to the car and headed home. The ride was nice and the scenery beautiful. We passed several places along the way that looked like they might be castles in the distance, and by rivers and towns that we kept saying, "let's go there next trip." The list keeps growing.
Getting home we were tired, but the tree still had presents under it, so we got comfy and all opened Christmas presents only 2 days late. The kids were very animanted and excited. Tiara got a dress form and is going to take sewing lessons now excited to design and sew some things herself. All three little ones got traditional German dresses and some special dolls. They were all spoiled.
Paris was amazing. We all love France. Elise went to bed asking if we were going to go to the Eiful-ful tower tomorrow.
1914-1918
"Aux Heroiques Soldats de France
Defenseurs de la Patrie et du Droit
Glorieux Liberateurs de L'Alsace et de la Lorraine"
"Aux Heroiques Soldats de France
Defenseurs de la Patrie et du Droit
Glorieux Liberateurs de L'Alsace et de la Lorraine"
Since that was closed, we drove back to Compiegne hoping to find some food. There is another royal chateau there, but it isn't as pretty. It was built as the summer home for Louis XV, but it is relatively short, without the castle-like turrets and pomp. It takes up several city blocks and seems to sprawl forever, but other than its size, it is unimpressive from the outside. Truly, it looks like some U.S. government building in its style. The road does go through it at one point which was interesting. There is a tunnel through part of it that is only wide enough for one vehicle, so traffic lights on either side keep people waiting until it's clear.
Finding a place to park there was difficult, but we parked in a lot by the Rue de Victor Hugo and walked to the city center where the Christmas market was still going on. By a large church near the square ice skaters skated and laughed at a temporary outdoor rink circled with lights and greenery. One block separated that church and the other where the Christmas market sat. And in that block was the Brasserie Parissienne, a very crowded "cafe et salon de te." We sat in the corner by the window painted up with advertising with a clear view of the ice skaters next door. It felt good after our walk in the cold to sit and relax in the warmth. I ordered three Croque Monsieurs for the three bigger girls. This time they arrived a bit creamier than the last ones, generously heaped with more cheese and more bechamel sauce. As before, all three plates were empty when we left, those sandwiches are so delicious. Kirk ordered an omelet which arrived, tasty, but nothing special. I, loving the French style of eating, ordered one of their light small course meals starting with a delicious slice of Quiche au Saumon and a small salad. That would have been enough, but next came the Plat Du Jour which happened to be "Chafon a 'l orange et pommes de Terre Campagnarde." In English, a very flavorful chicken leg with orange sauce and the most delicious mashed potato dish I've ever eaten. I can't possibly describe it except to say that not a crumb was left - except for the mushrooms that were picked out. I still haven't grown up enough to eat a cooked mushroom. It was hard to leave. The restaurant was packed, the waiters were flying, and it proved impossible to catch their eye. Finally, I left with two of the girls and Kirk stayed with the other two until he could finally get their attention and pay.Photographs: 1) Kirk at the restaurant... there's an interesting, artsy, dome in the ceiling behind him 2) Elise playing "house" with her colored pencils and doing different voices for different colors 3) Elise looking through her rolled up menu at me as if it were a telescope
The market at the foot of the church was small in comparison with the German Christmas markets, but it was the most Christmas I'd seen in France. There were ornaments, toys, vases, candles in the shapes of fruits that were so real, I thought for the longest time that it was a produce stand, and jewelry. Nothing really seemed special though. One stand decorated in the German style sold pretzels. Another German style booth had a witch on the roof and sold candy... it was called Hansel and Gretel. A women made huge crepes. A man sold hot orange wine that smelled delicious. There was a sausage seller and a couple small carnival rides. In the center, almost blocked by the booths, is a statue to the Joan of Arc who was captured there in 1430.
Photographs: 1) The Joan of Arc statue "Je Yray Voir Mes Bons Amys de Compiengne 1430-1880 1895" 2) The fruit candle booth at the Christmas market 3)The view of the church at Compiegne 4) Hansel and Gretel 5) The meat vendor 6) The top of the church and a flock of birds - there were a lot of pigeons therePhotographs below: 1) Desserts in the window of the Chocolatier 2) A street in Compiegne 3) Both WWI and WWII memorials by the church in Compiegne 4) Large wooden shutters common on homes here in France 5) The church with the ice skating rink
Still with three more hours to drive, we walked back to the car and headed home. The ride was nice and the scenery beautiful. We passed several places along the way that looked like they might be castles in the distance, and by rivers and towns that we kept saying, "let's go there next trip." The list keeps growing.
Getting home we were tired, but the tree still had presents under it, so we got comfy and all opened Christmas presents only 2 days late. The kids were very animanted and excited. Tiara got a dress form and is going to take sewing lessons now excited to design and sew some things herself. All three little ones got traditional German dresses and some special dolls. They were all spoiled.
Paris was amazing. We all love France. Elise went to bed asking if we were going to go to the Eiful-ful tower tomorrow.
Photos: 1,2,4) Elise 3,7) Luci 5,6) Arianna 8) Tiara
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