Life: Idiotropic

Aging gracefully is a concept that very few have mastered without a little outside help.  Even here, as you walk through towns centuries old and look at paintings and sculptures that seem untouched by time, there are hundreds of restoration artists hidden in the background, the plastic surgeons of art and architecture who return these wonders to their former glory.

Today I had the pleasure to doing a small tour of three of Valencia's Baroque churches, three churches that King Jaime ordered to be built on the grounds of Muslim Mosques after he conquered the city in 1238.

The "Light of the Images" foundation has been restoring churches and monuments in the Comunidad Valenciana for the past 10 years and this exhibit is the latest of their work.  Apparently the baroque style from Italy had a large impression on Valencian artists in the 17th century creating a new baroque, the Valencian baroque, that can be seen in the bright blue ceramic domes seen profusely in this region of Spain.

The tour begins in a mill built on the site of a mosque that is now an exhibit hall with just a small series of columns remaining inside.  This part of the tour talked about the foundation, the restoration process, and the long list of buildings that the LoI have worked on these past ten years.  It wasn't very exciting, but even then, they wouldn't allow photographs.  None of the churches allowed photographs, so I was reprimanded in 2/3.

Saint Stephen's Church reminds me of Bavaria's Vierzehnheiligen with so much pale blue and white.   It's difficult to get the scope of the church with so many walls set up in the center.  A maze of artwork on grey "office-style" walls.  It's like a Dilbert cubicle inside this church.  They also have all of the side chapels blocked with art as well, so though it's beautiful, the feeling that you're walking through an exquisite church is pretty lost.  The fact photography is forbidden and there are a plethora of bored employees listening for the smallest click, makes it difficult - for me, at least - to enjoy.

Still, this blue and white beauty is where El Cid's daughters were married and where El Cid himself was buried, so it must not be too shabby.


The next on our tour is one that has been closed for years - so long, that Begonia had never been inside.  It's open now as more museum than church with a zig zag of walls throughout with artwork and glass cases of reliquaries and fancy garments.  This Church of Saint Martin and Saint Anthony the Abbot shows a completely different style of baroque - this one in white and gold, an uplifting image of heaven in stark contrast to the fearful darkness of gothic cathedrals.

The nave stucco was destroyed in a fire and is unable to be restored, so they have left up the scaffolding there so that visitors can get a view of the church and a closer look at this impressive ceiling and the dome with the dove inside.

The St. John of the Cross Church is where my landlord's oldest son was married years ago - before it was restored.  Then, the interior was grey.  Now, it's been returned to a bright white background with relief work in a bronze color - not nearly as pretty and shiny as Martin's.   The nave here is covered as well and there is another museum-like set up with paintings and religious artifacts, but, the chapels here are not covered and they themselves are the jewel of this church.  Tiles.  In true Valencian style, each chapel is lined on each side with a beautiful painting in blues and greens on tiles.  I've never seen anything like it anywhere else.  Created here in the 18th century, there are 6000 tiles.  Amazing.

A nice walk, a little shopping, some time before the mascleta... lunch.

Apparently, in Spain, anything can be made into sandwich.  Really.  I was shocked the first time I saw a tortilla sandwich (the Spanish tortilla is a think egg and potato pie - not really sandwich material... but that's just me.  Apparently, Tiara's friends get excited when they have bocadillo de tortilla at school.)  Today, I had, on bread, something that I've only enjoyed before served on a plate.  tddddddddddd... drumroll.  The ever popular, apparently all the rage in Madrid, calamari sandwich!!!

And it was good.  Really good.  I'd actually order one again.

So we sat in a tiny little bar with a buzz of people walking in and out and a thick crowed pushing in at the bar where bowls of pre-fried fish sat waiting.  Begonia ordered two calamari sandwiches without mayo (thank goodness) and a beer.  I ordered a coffee and got the "are you nuts?" look from both of them.  Fine.  So the boy came back with my coffee and Begonia told him I'd have a glass of white wine also.  She and Manuel lived in a dry county in Mississippi for a few months years ago and just about died the day that they were served hot tea with lunch.  Nope.  With food, only beer or wine will do.

Savvy Bego asked for the check as she ordered, paid before we'd started to eat, so as I was chugging my last few drops of coffee, we were already beginning to stand, gather our purses, and head out the door for the mascleta.  (next post)